Journal

Notes from Giza

Practical things, and a few stories.

Visa on arrival at Cairo, step by step

Ten minutes, about $25, and one sticker. Here is the order to do things in.

Less complicated than the internet makes it. Comfort first, a scarf for mosques, a jacket for the desert.

Twice a year the sun reaches 60 metres into the mountain and lights three of the four gods. Here is how to be there.

Fire, tea, bread baked in the sand, and the Fifth Dynasty pyramids as the only skyline.

The hassle at Giza is real. Our fix is simple: we pay everyone before you arrive.